Can anyone tell me the way to check?? The covers say "KOREA" so that part is easy but the wheels are marked with a part number that ends in 067 thanks!!
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Re: `67 Alum wheels real versus repro
Howard-----
I do not know what different characteristics that the original wheels exhibit in contrast to the reproduction variety. However, I believe that the original 67 wheels were manufactured by Kelsey-Hayes and I also believe that the wheels may be so-marked in some manner on the inside surface. In any event, the 1967 bolt-on aluminum wheels were GM #3910730. I'm sure that there are other folks on this board that will be able to provide more information about the distinctions between original and repro wheels.In Appreciation of John Hinckley -
Re: `67 Alum wheels real versus repro
In addition to Joe's note on the manufacturer, there is a significant difference in the thickness of the "fins" in the wheel itself. The repro's are cast in the same pattern as the knockoff wheel. The original use a much thinner fin about 2/3 the thickness of the knockoff's and the repro's. It's very noticable, especially when compared to the fins on the center covers.Comment
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Re: `67 Alum wheels real versus repro
Two quick things to check just looking at them on the car. first the fins are considerably more narrow the real ones are probably 3/16" thick where the repro are 1/4 or better. The outer rim bead is more thin and has more depth in the curvature the repro doesn`t have as much turnout on the lip. Once you compare them you can easily tell.Comment
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Re: `67 Alum wheels real versus repro
howard,
Two book references that I have checked (complete with photos) state that no dates or casting numbers appear on the original 1967 bolt-on wheels. Since I haven't owned any originals or closely examined the backside of one, then I'm not sure that a "KH" or "Kelsey-Hayes" type designation appears on the originals either. The photos show no markings at all, but I also agree and believe that the originals were manufactured by Kelsey-Hayes.
As mentioned, there is a definite way to tell the difference when comparing the dimensions or thickness of the original bolt-on fins to the reproductions. Original knock-offs have their own additional cast markings that make those easy to identify. But in the case of the 1967 bolt-ons, comparing the fins and outer flange may very well be the best, possibly only, ways of telling the difference.
Even if yours are reproductions, it could be helpful all around if you could further examine what you have and provide any additional information also. Hope this has helped. TBarr #24014Comment
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Re: `67 Alum wheels real versus repro
To further muddy up the waters, I have researched a set of BO wheels I got with my '67. They seem correct in every way, but have had the K-H ground off the back of the wheel !! I "THINK & BELIEVE" these are early repro. wheels cast from original K-H molds, but the K-H were ground off for legal issues !! I think dealers probably installed BO wheels in the early years and found vendors that were using the correct molds (and probably charged the factory BO wheel pricing). So there is yet another thing to think about, IF yours simply didn't have the K-H ground off....they still may not necessariliary be original factory wheels.Comment
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